Some of the churches had un-hooded participants marching with bibles, crosses, candles and incense, but I found the women in the Maja outfits especially beautiful. They each had tall tortoise shell combs holding their buns in place. Then, draped over each comb was a black veil made of lace, swaying down to their knees. A long black ringlet on each side of their face completed this dramatic look.

But the biggest surprise for me was the music. Each church had a marching band and they played brass tunes with enough Spanish pride and Malaguena-esque trills, frills and cadenzas to make the procession even more thrilling and intense.